Saturday, June 02, 2007

An Evening at Golconda...

Sunny afternoon in Hyderabad, six young explorer and destination...Golconda....the most magnificent fortress complex in India which lies on the western outskirts around 11km from Hyderabad. We reached there when sun was packing for the day and breeze was flowing through the corners of the hills comforting the leaves and giving moment of relaxation for everyone.
Entering into Fateh Darwaza [Gate of Victory] , we got surprised by the security check the metal detector door wasn't working. It was really surprising to see lack of security even after Mecca Masjid blast. What can we say, its India and we have short term memory. The door is 13 feet wide and 25 feet high and studded with steel spikes to protect it from charging elephants. At Fateh Darwaza can be experienced the fantastic acoustical effects, characteristic of the engineering marvels at Golconda. A hand clap at a certain point below the dome at the entrance reverberates and can be heard clearly at the 'Bala Hisar' pavilion, the highest point almost a kilometre away. This acted as the warning note to residents in case of danger though now it is a mere amusing diversion to visitors. But in actual we can't verify this as many tourists come everyday and there is continuous clapping sound and that get mixed up to hear anything at Bala Hisar. But never the less it was new experience. The main structure of the fort is laid out in a sequence of enclosures that holds the public and administrative structures to the royal residences and halls. The mortuary baths lie to the right of the portico. The baths were meant for the deceased royalty and harem ladies who were given the ritualistic bath before burial outside the Banjara Gate. Moving through the 'Nagina Bagh' we entered in area where ancient princes were used to play but before knowing the actual place name we almost named it with various guess ....one of them was 'Hamam'.. where Queen used to have bath...looking at the heavy metal cube lying on the ground..one of us said..no no..it was jail...after some photo session we all moved towards 'Badi Bowli' ( Big Well )...in Urdu 'Bowli' means 'well' where people used to have water reservoir for whole year. Me and KC just went on security wall...massive crenellated ramparts. That wall was around 10KM long , surrounding the fortress built on a granite hill 120 metres high. And with yes-no-yes-no we all decided to explore the fort with unusual way...little adventures and exciting...we started marching on that wall with ups-down..and walking on the "proper way" having nothing proper in it....KC heading the unit always finding the "proper way" way to march forward whenever we hit dead-end...it was getting excited..heavy feet relaxing in A.C. were now climbing on the rocks in hot sunny atmosphere...aha...really cool na...
Finally almost when we all decided to move back as at that dead end we found no "proper way" to move forward..suddenly Nitin said..."Hey Guys com'on...here is the 'proper way'..." ..."ohh...no..enough 'proper way'..."...but really that was real proper way in true sense...and we reached at top of the hill....Hurrey....mission accomplished....truly it was great when you do something offbeat and you finally make it...it feels good....then we went on exploring the normal tourist way enjoying the 'Prakratik Saundarya' .....oops..no 'Mazza' available on Fort...so thirsty throats have to accept Limca and Sprite... Then we visited a Hindu temple (Madanna's) belonging to the Kakatiya period carved out of a huge boulder. It has colorful murals of the Goddess Kali on the white-painted facade.
Another important structure is the mosque built by Taramati. As one clambers up and down the boulders through narrow patches and uneven steps we can see unusual clay pipes fitted into the wall planks – evidence of an efficient water supply arrangement to the uphill residential area.Prominent corner minarets distinguish the small mosque (1518) built by Ibrahim Quli Qutub Shah. The courtyard extend up to the ramparts providing spectacular views of the landscape below, for miles. Close to the mosque lies the small Rama Mandir under the boulders. Ram Das, a revenue official jailed by Abul Hasan Tana Shah for misusing state funds, carved images of Rama, Lakshman and Hanuman on the rock surface in the cell. We didn't get time to visit that cell as we were waiting for Dharmendra aka Baba who was supposed to be at Fort by that time. Vipul and Ankit waited at Bala Hisar for him and we other four continued our exploration as we did not want to miss the sound and light show on Fort.
The ascent of 380 steps finally culminates at the Balahisar Baradari, a wind-swept pavilion, twelve-arched, triple storied structure used as a durbar hall. It is divided by substantial piers into vaulted bays, a raised chamber with triple arches opens off the rear wall. On the uppermost terrace stands a stone throne. A pavilion, far away in the hills, is believed to have housed Taramati, Abul Hasan’s paramour. The Baradari shows yet another engineering marvel – natural air-conditioning provided by a gap in the double walls which sucks the air and releases it with accumulated pressure in the chambers. Steep narrow steps descend to the zenana quarters – Rani Mahal. These palaces, built on massive platforms, had high ceilings and walls covered with decorative niches, alcoves and cornices, essentially Persian in design. Now a days that place is used for sound and light show.that brings the legend of Golconda to life. With a spectacular interplay of audio and visual effects, the story of Golconda unfolds over centuries of splendour. The show livens up the glorious past and it is an experience worth watching.
So after enlightening our minds with glorious past of Golconda and beautiful gazal by Jagjeet Sing we moved out. Golconda Fort, architecturally it is very different from Northern India where the architecture was a combination of the traditional architecture and influences that were brought in by the various empires (including mainly Central Asian and Persian influences). Unlike the north, the south was very isolated geographically and was not influenced to the same level and has retained its own style. Nowadays the ruins have a desolate majesty in the midst of an arid plain....Hmm...Witnessing and experiencing great exploration.....we packed up for the Wang's Kichten...umm..yummy Chinese and Thai food....really at the end of the day I was feeling satisfied with unknown joy in my mind...unforgettable evening at Golconda....whuhh...

P.S. :- Photos... http://picasaweb.google.com/harshaliitm/GolcondaFortHyderabad

3 comments:

Tejas Kulkarni said...

Abey nice and detailed pravas varnan! :-)
Place looks stud...Pics upload kar.
Wangs kitchen bara ahe ka Hyd cha? Chennai insti bahercha itka khaas nahi vatla...

Keep writing and post a link to ur album on blog

Prasad Dudhgaonkar said...

Very vivid description... enjoyed reading... information about more places awaited!

thepseudobuddha said...

awesome detail man... you've totally tempted to go back there again..!